refactor: drop toast + over-engineered extras, add inline admin feedback

Phase 1 cleanup of the personal-site revamp. Backend/architecture untouched;
changes are limited to removing unused complexity and restoring feedback.

Removals
- Toast system: delete react-hot-toast, Toaster, QueryToastBridge, lib/toast,
  the toggle/easter-egg calls, related i18n keys and the dependency.
- Contact protection: remove Turnstile + per-IP rate limiting
  (lib/contact-guard, lib/contact-protection, admin screen, form widget,
  app-config wiring, nav entry, test).
- Speculative specs: delete orders, products, downloads, project-inquiry.

Inline feedback (replaces toast, no new deps)
- Add lib/admin-feedback (withFlash/readFlash) and components/admin/admin-flash,
  rendered centrally by AdminDashboardShell.
- Emit success/error messages for media, site-settings, portfolio, smtp,
  marquee and maintenance actions; pages read them via searchParams.
- Contact form shows validation/delivery errors inline; success still
  redirects to /success.

Docs
- Fix stale paths in frontend-system-* (components/root -> components/admin,
  lib/root-navigation -> lib/admin-navigation, drop phantom src/) and remove
  contact-protection references from docs and CLAUDE.md.
- Add docs/PHASE0_DIAGNOSIS.md (diagnosis report).

Note: proxy.ts self-fetch kept intentionally; it also drives maintenance mode.

docs/FEATURES.md

@@ -13,8 +13,6 @@
   - `CASE_STUDY`
 - Contact form with:
   - validation
-  - optional Turnstile
-  - rate limiting
   - email delivery
 - Success page after contact submission
 - Maintenance redirect flow
@@ -29,7 +27,6 @@
 - Media library with usage bindings
 - Site settings management
 - SMTP settings and test email
-- Contact protection settings
 - Marquee settings
 - Maintenance toggle
 - UI Kit preview page